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Alaska’s Ecotourism 阿拉斯加的生态旅游

 

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Discover a new way to experience Alaska’s wildness  探索体验阿拉斯加荒野的方式

 

After a day of drizzle, the morning sun felt good as it warmed the gray pebble beach where I sat watching three black bears amble in their never-ending searching for morsels.

下了一天的蒙蒙细雨之后,清晨的阳光感觉真美好,也温暖了灰色的卵石海滩,而我就坐在海滩上,望着三只黑熊永无止境地为着找寻丁点食物缓缓而行。

 

The bears were roaming on the other side of a fast-flowing inlet that lets the tidewaters in and out of a lagoon at the base of Pedersen Glacier, a tongue of blue-tinged ice that curves down between the jagged peaks of the Kenai Mountains.

这些熊只是在湍急的小水湾对岸漫步徘徊,派德森冰河底部的舄湖潮水,就透过小水湾流进流出。略带蓝色的冰河,像舌状物一样弯曲往下延伸到肯奈山锯齿般凹凸不平的顶峰之间。

 

While gulls swirled and screeched overhead, a dozen harbor seals coasted through the inlet, diving for cover when they spotted a human.

海鸥在空中盘旋着,且发出尖锐叫声,而十来只斑海豹则在小湾内从容快速地优游,当牠们一发现人类的踪影时,就会立刻潜入水里寻求掩护。

 

Across the lagoon, three kayaks headed out from Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge, which opened last summer and is the only lodging within Kenai Fjords National Park. Before, most visitors saw the 600,000-acre park’s calving glaciers, ice-capped peaks and rocky coasts by boat and by plane, the hardier backpacking or kayaking in for longer visits.

在舄湖对面,可以看到三艘皮艇(译注:或称爱斯基摩艇、独木舟)从肯奈峡湾冰河度假村出发往外划。这家去年夏季开张的度假村,是肯奈峡湾国家公园里唯一的一家度假村。在过去,大多数游客往往只能在坐船或坐飞机时看到这座占地六十万英亩的公园里崩解的冰河、冰雪覆顶的山峰,和岩石海岸,而更吃苦耐劳的背包或皮艇之旅,则必须花更多时间来游览。

 

A sanctuary for wildlife  野生物庇护所

 

The Port Graham Corporation, a Native American group, operates the site as a private wildlife sanctuary within the national park. When the corporation sought a developer to build a lodge, it turned to Kirk Hoessle, whose Alaska Wildlife Adventures operates two lodges on the Kenai Peninsula in south-central Alaska. The company’s Kenai Backcountry Lodge has earned praise within the ecotourism industry for its light imprint in a setting within a million acres of designated wilderness.

美国原住民团体波特葛汉公司和国家公园管理处共同经营这块地方,作为民间的野生物庇护所(译注:因该公司持有公园内部份土地)。该公司当年想找建商来兴建一家度假村,结果找上了寇克.霍索,他开的阿拉斯加野地探险公司在阿拉斯加中南部的肯奈半岛经营两家度假村。该公司的肯奈偏远地区度假村相当赢得生态旅游界的赞扬,因为位在占地百万英亩、指定保护的野地当中的这座度假村,对所在环境造成的冲击微乎其微。

 

“It’s state of the art in terms of an ecolodge, minimizing impact. It’s as if the cabins had always been here. Kayaking back through Pedersen Lagoon today, you really had to have the right angle to even see the lodge. It opens up what would have been considered the back country to visitors who normally wouldn’t have come,” superintendent of the national park Jeff Mow said.

「就生态度假村来说,这座度假村非常先进,因为它把对环境的冲击减至最低,让人感觉彷佛度假村木屋原本就一直矗立在当地一般。今天搭皮艇穿越派德森舄湖的回程中,你一定要找到正确的角度,才有幸看见度假村一眼,它使原本被视为偏远地区的地方敞开了大门,迎接一般情况下通常不会来造访的游客,」国家公园处处长杰夫.莫伍表示。

 

 

 

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drizzle [ˋdrɪz!] n. 毛毛雨

pebble [ˋpɛb!] n. 小卵石

morsel [ˋmɔrs!] n.(美味)小吃;(少量)佳肴

roam [rom] v. 漫步;漫游;流浪

inlet [ˋɪn͵lɛt] n. 水湾;小湾;小港   a narrow strip of water that goes from a sea or lake into the land or between islands

tidewater [ˋtaɪd͵wɔtɚ] n. 潮水, 受海潮影响的河水

lagoon [ləˈɡun] n. 舄湖

tongue [tʌŋ] n. 舌状物; 火舌; 伸入水中的狭长陆地

tinged [tɪndʒd] adj. 有些许……色调(或痕迹)的

jagged [ˋdʒægɪd] adj. 有尖突的;有缺口的;锯齿状的

gull [gʌl] n. 鸥,海鸥

screech [skritʃ] v. 尖叫;发出尖锐刺耳的声音

coast [kost] v.(靠惯性)滑行

kayak [ˋkaɪæk] n. 独木舟; 小艇

lodge [lɑdʒ] n. 旅舍;山林小屋

lodging [ˋlɑdʒɪŋ] n. 住所,寓所

calve [kæv] v. 使(冰川)崩解  to break off, as in the case of a glacier or iceberg

hardy [ˋhɑrdɪ] adj. 能吃苦耐劳的;强壮的;坚强的

backpacking [ˋbæk͵pækɪŋ] n.(背背包作)徒步旅行

sanctuary [ˋsæŋktʃʊ͵ɛrɪ] n. 庇护所,避难所

peninsula [pəˋnɪnsələ] n. 半岛

imprint [ˋɪmprɪnt] n. 印痕;痕迹

state-of-the-art [ˋstetəvðiˋɑrt] adj.(科技、机电等产品)最先进的 the highest level of development, as of a device, technique, or scientific field, achieved at a particular time

ecolodge [ˋɛkolɑdʒ] n. 生态渡假屋 a type of tourist accommodation designed to have the least possible impact on the natural environment in which it is situated.

back country [ˋbæk͵kʌntrɪ] n. 偏僻的农村地区;边远地区 backcountry

superintendent [͵supərɪnˋtɛndənt] n.(机关,企业等的)主管,负责人

 

 

 

 

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Building for minimal development  最低度开发的兴建方式

 

Construction of the $2.6 million project started in the spring of 2008. Eight feet of snow met the first crews, who set up tent camps – and began a peaceful co-existence with the local residents.

耗资两百六十万美元的这项建案,兴建工程是在二00八年春季展开的。迎接第一批工程团队的是八呎厚的雪,工作人员搭建了帐篷营地,并展开和当地居民和平共处的生活。

 

“We kept a very clean camp, all food in bear containers,” Hoessle said. “In early construction, we had a couple curious bears break into tents, kind of swatted things around inside. But they’ve been pretty …. well-behaved. At least so far.”

「我们把营地保持得非常干净,所有食物都放在防熊容器里,」霍索表示,「在施工初期,我们发现有几只好奇的熊闯进帐篷里,把里头的东西打得掉满地。不过,牠们还算是…表现良好啦,至少到目前为止是如此。」

 

Getting to the lodge is half the fun. At Seward, we boarded the Weather or Knot, an enclosed aluminum catamaran that has a bow that lowers hydraulically to allow easy beach access.

到度假村只是此行乐趣的一部份而已喔。我们在西沃搭上了封闭的铝制双体船「风和日丽号」(译注:knot为速度计算单位,相当于每小时1.852公里),船首藉助水力作用降低,好让船更容易登上海滩。

 

“It’s about a four-hour ride to the lodge,” Hoessle said. “You can do it in less than that but we take our time, looking for wildlife, and have lunch in front of a glacier.”

「到度假村大约要四小时行程,」霍索透露,「其实可以花更少的时间,但我们想慢慢来,以便有时间观赏野生物,并在冰河前享用午餐。」

 

We saw two humpback whales, seals sleeping on ice floes and scads of clown-faced puffins, and listened, from a safe distance, to the snap, crackle and pop of Aialik Glacier as it calved chunks of ice into the water.

我们看到了两只大翅鲸(译注:或称座头鲸),还有海豹睡在大片浮冰上,以及好多长着小丑脸的海鹦,我们还在安全距离外,聆听艾亚里克冰河逐渐崩解,而碎裂的冰片落入水中的种种声音,包括了断裂声、劈啪作响声和爆裂的砰砰声。

 

The only sign of development as we approached the lodge from the Aialik Bay side was a road of gray pebbles that led through a meadow into the spruce and alder forest. A meticulous job has been done to protect the forest floor of mosses and ferns during construction.

我们从艾亚里克湾即将去到度假村时,所看到唯一的开发迹象,就是一条灰卵石道路了,这条路穿越了草原,通往一片云杉和赤杨木的森林。兴建过程中,工程人员曾小心翼翼地极力保护森林地面的苔藓和蕨类植物。

 

A 10-minute walk through the woods brought us to the lodge, with 10 cabins on one and six on the other, each with two double beds, bathrooms and glacier views. All were connected by pebble paths and boardwalks, including a walkway that ended in a stunning view of the glacier reflected in the lagoon. The log lodge and cabins are simple yet sturdy, built to withstand the snow that piles on the roofs each winter.

穿梭林间十分钟之后,我们就抵达了度假村,一个有十座小木屋,另一侧则有六座,每个小木屋内都有两张双人床、浴室,而且都能看到冰河景观。卵石小径和木板路连结着所有小木屋,而其中有条步道的尽头,还可以看到冰河倒映在舄湖中的壮丽美景。实木度假村和小木屋虽然简单,却结实强韧,建造时还特别设计能承受每年冬季屋顶上堆积的厚厚积雪。

 

 

 

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tent [tɛnt] n. 帐篷,帐棚

swat [swɑt] v. 猛击;拍打

well-behaved [ˋwɛlbɪˋhevd] adj. 行为端正的; 守秩序的; 听话的

half the fun …. 是乐趣的一部份 what happens before doing something is a large part of what makes that thing enjoyable; a large part of the enjoyment

catamaran [͵kætəməˋræn] n. 双体船 a sailing boat that has two parallel floating parts held together by a single flat surface

bow [baʊ] n. 船头,艄

hydraulically [haɪˋdrɔlɪk!ɪ] adv. 透过水(或液)压

take (one’s) time 不慌不忙, 慢慢来 to act slowly or at one's leisure

humpback [ˋhʌmp͵bæk] n. 座头鲸

ice floe 大片浮冰 a large area of ice floating in the sea 

floe [flo] n. 浮冰(块)

puffin [ˋpʌfɪn] n. 海鹦

snap [snæp] n. 劈啪声

crackle [ˋkræk!] n. 细碎爆裂声

pop [pɑp] n. 砰的一声,啪的一声

meadow [ˋmɛdo] n. 草地,牧草地

spruce [sprus] n. 云杉木

alder [ˋɔldɚ] n.【植】赤杨

meticulous [məˋtɪkjələs] adj. 非常仔细的; 非常注意细节的

moss [mɔs] n. 苔藓;地衣

boardwalk [ˋbord͵wɔk] n. 木板路

sturdy [ˋstɝdɪ] adj. 健壮的,结实的

 

 

 

 

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The wilderness beckons  野地的呼唤

 

The lodge’s systems run on a propane generator during the day, which charges batteries that are used at night. The walk-in food freezer in the kitchen is among the appliances turned off at night; a barrel of glacier ice helps keep the contents cold.

在白天,度假村的各个系统都由丙烷发电机供应,发电机还会把电池充电,以供夜晚使用。厨房里的超大型冰柜是夜间会关闭的装置之一,冰柜里存放的东西改用一桶取自冰河的冰来冰镇。

 

Returning from an afternoon kayaking adventure on the lagoon, we snatched up a chunk of floating ice and brought it back. Our evening drinks had ice cubes that were thousands of years old.

我们有天下午坐皮艇到舄湖探险的回程途中,一把拿起了一块浮冰,并把它带回度假村。我们当晚的饮料里,于是就加了有数千年历史的冰块。

 

As Mow, the park superintendent, said, the lodge and cabins seem to have been dropped, with little adverse impact, into the middle of a mecca of wildlife and wilderness. The bears appear to have accepted the new company, taking daily walks around the tidewater mud flats of the lagoon, passing within yards of the cabins. You can watch the bears, plus the sea otters and harbor seals, from the comfort of the rockers on your private porch.

公园处长莫伍表示,度假村和小木屋似乎是从天上掉下来到这处野生物和荒野的圣地中间,而且鲜少造成负面冲击。熊只似乎也接纳了这个新朋友,牠们每天都会漫步到舄湖潮水泥地四周,并经过离小木屋仅数码(译注:相当于0.9144公尺)之隔的地方。你可以舒服地在自己的小木屋门廊的摇椅上,观赏熊只,还有海獭和斑海豹。

 

“The demographic has changed across the country – the National Park Service is struggling a lot with this,” Mow added. “Fewer and fewer people are interested in backpacking and camping. There’s a lack of nature in the upbringing of the next generation, a nature deficit disorder. They spend more time with computers and video games.”

「全美各地的人口特性早已改变了──为此国家公园管理局也正费尽苦思来因应,」莫伍补充说,「愈来愈少人对背包旅行和露营感兴趣了,而下一代的成长经验中,也缺少亲近大自然的机会,彷佛得到了大自然不足失调症,他们把更多时间花在打计算机和电玩游戏上头。」

 

“The lodge is perfect for providing a wilderness experience to a variety of visitors, to a generation uncomfortable in these undeveloped areas. They may be experiencing less nature, but that doesn’t mean they don’t need it.”

「对于各式各样的游客,和对未开发地区感到不自在的世代来说,这座度假村是提供野外经验的绝佳场所。也许人们较少能体验到大自然,但这可不代表他们就不需要大自然。」

 

by Tom Uhlenbrock

 

 

 

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propane [ˋpropen] n.【化】丙烷

walk-in [ˋwɔk͵ɪn] adj.(壁橱等)大得能走进去的

snatch [snætʃ] up 抓起 to grasp hastily or eagerly

mecca [ˋmɛkə] n.(m-)许多人想去的地方; 圣地; 胜地  a place to which many people with a certain interest are attracted

company [ˋkʌmpənɪ] n. 同伴(们); 朋友(们)

flat [flæt] n. 沼地;浅滩

otter [ˋɑtɚ] n.【动】獭,水獭

rocker [ˋrɑkɚ] n. 摇篮;摇椅

porch [portʃ] n. 阳台,走廊

upbringing [ˋʌp͵brɪŋɪŋ] n. 养育;教养,培养

 

 

 

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amble [ˋæmb!] v. 轻松地走,从容漫步 to walk in a slow and relaxed way

cover [ˋkʌvɚ] n. 掩护(物);掩蔽处 shelter or protection, especially in a dangerous situation

hardier [ˋhɑrdɪɚ] adj. 更能吃苦耐劳的 being strong enough to bear extreme conditions or difficult situations

scads [skædz] n.【美】很多,巨额 a large number or amount

beckon [ˋbɛkn] v.(招手或点头)示意;召唤; 吸引;引诱  to attract people to something

adverse [ædˋvɝs] adj. 不利的,有害的 having a negative or harmful effect on something

demographic [͵deməˋgræfɪk] n.  (某个地方或社会的)人口特征,人口统计数据; (尤指特定年龄段的)人群 the number and characteristics of the people in an area

deficit [ˋdɛfɪsɪt] n. 赤字,不足额 a lack or shortage of something

 

 

Kenai Fjords National Park

 

Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge

 

 

 

 

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