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Captivating Krakow 冻结历史的城市：克拉科夫

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（译注：直译为迷人的克拉科夫）

This Polish city thrives on medieval architecture and college town spirit 克拉克夫这座波兰城市凭借着中世纪建筑和大学城氛围而兴旺繁盛

Completely enchanting. Gracious and romantic. Exciting. Complex. Historic. Krakow is part college town and part delicious fairy tale. It was from this beautiful region that hundreds of thousands of Poles emigrated to Detroit, Chicago and other American cities around 1900. They fled occupation, oppression, poverty and high taxes – leaving this place to make their fortune in a new land.

极度迷人、优雅浪漫、刺激好玩、错综复杂，又充满历史意义──这就是克拉科夫，既是大学城，又宛如美不胜收的童话故事。一九００年左右，数十万波兰人就是从这处美丽的地区移民到底特律、芝加哥和其他美国城市。他们为了逃避外国的占领和压迫、贫困和高税金，而告别这座城市，并在陌生的国度发迹致富。

But what a treasure the city is now. Lacking the cachet of Italy, France or the United Kingdom, Poland got just 331,000 American visitors last year, which is a shame because Poland is still one of the most affordable spots in Europe.

但如今，这城市简直是一座宝库。虽然波兰缺乏意大利、法国或英国所拥有的特色，以致于游客人数较逊色，去年只有三十三万一千名美国游客造访；这实在很可惜，因为波兰迄今仍是欧洲各国中费用最低廉的旅游胜地之一。

For an old city, it feels very young. Since Copernicus was an undergrad here at Jagiellonian University in the 1400s, Krakow has been buzzing with more than 100,000 students.

克拉科夫虽然是座古老的城市，却充满青春气息。一四００年代哥白尼曾在这里的加吉隆尼亚大学就读，而如今此地已有超过十万名学生，成为熙熙攘攘的大学城了。

It is a 1,000-year-old city that has never been bombed. Occupied, yes. But its 14th- to 16th-century landmarks – its churches, medieval towers and grand, stunning market square – have survived it all. Quaintly, a trumpeter plays a song every hour on the hour in the tower of a local church, just to let people know that all is well.

这座有一千年历史的都市从未遭受轰炸，虽然的确也曾被外国占领，但区内十四世纪至十六世纪建造的地标──包括了教堂、中世纪高塔和宏伟、令人叹为观止的市集广场──皆仍保存至今。令人感觉有点古怪的是，当地一间教堂的高塔上，每小时整点都会有一名小号手准时吹奏歌曲，彷佛只是为了让人们知道一切都安然无恙。

A bit of background  背景一二

Krakow, the largest city in southern Poland, is nestled between Ukraine to the east, Slovakia to the south and the Czech Republic to the west. It is often included as a brief stop on tours of Eastern Europe. But Krakow, a city of 800,000 people, deserves more time. Most people speak English. You have time to sit on a bench or wander slowly and just absorb the atmosphere.

克拉科夫是波兰南部最大城，东边有乌克兰，南方有斯洛伐克，西边则是捷克。这里往往是东欧旅游行程中，只会安排短暂停留的一站，可是这座有八十万人口的都市，其实值得花更多时间游览。这儿大多数民众都会说英语，游客可以花时间坐在长椅上，或是漫步游览，单纯地沈浸吸收这座城市的气息。

Sit still, and you will notice the nuns and priests walking the streets in traditional dress. And you will notice the amber jewelry in so many shop windows. It is not a gem, but a smoky resin from the Baltic Sea that is made into necklaces, earrings, magnifying glass handles and little boxes.

只要静静地坐着，就会发现有身穿传统衣着的修女和神父走过街道。游客还会在许多店家橱窗里看到琥珀这种珠宝，不过，那并非宝石，而是来自波罗的海的烟灰色松脂，被制成了项链、耳环、放大镜把手或小盒子。

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thrive on 靠吃…而繁衍兴旺

enchanting [ɪnˋtʃæntɪŋ] adj. 迷人的，使人着魔的

gracious [ˋgreʃəs] adj. 优美的，雅致的

delicious [dɪˋlɪʃəs] adj. 美妙的; 怡人的; 有趣的

Pole [pol] n. 波兰人

flee [fli] v. 逃离；逃避

occupation [͵ɑkjəˋpeʃən] n. 占领，占据 the control of a foreign country or region by armed force

shame [ʃem] n. 憾事

Copernicus [koˋpɝnɪkəs] n. 哥白尼（天文学家）

undergrad [ˋʌndɚˌɡræd] n. <口>大学肄业生，（尚未取得学位的）大学生

grand [grænd] adj. 雄伟的；堂皇的；盛大的

quaintly [kwentlɪ] adv. 离奇有趣地

trumpeter [ˋtrʌmpɪtɚ] n. 小号手，号手

on the hour 在某一正点 at every hour exactly; one o'clock, twoo'clock, and so on

wander [ˋwɑndɚ] v. 漫游；闲逛；流浪；徘徊[（+about/off/over/through）]

amber [ˋæmbɚ] n. 琥珀色；黄色；黄褐色; 琥珀

resin [ˋrɛzn] n. 合成树脂  a thick, sticky substance that is produced by some trees and that becomes yellow and hard after it is collected

Baltic [ˋbɔltɪk] adj. 波罗的海的

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A native’s perspective  在地人的观点

My guide, Barbara Wloch, takes me sightseeing part of each day. She tells me to bargain in the Cloth Hall main market, where sellers hawk amber jewelry, hand-made boxes, wooden toys, Christmas ornaments, lambskin rugs, chess sets and folk art.

我的向导芭芭拉．洛克每天都会带我去观光。她教我在纺织市集的主市场里讲价，小贩在这里兜售着琥珀珠宝、手工盒子、木制玩具、圣诞节装饰、羊皮地毯、西洋棋组和民俗艺术品。

The native Krakovian is trained as a lawyer, musician and translator. When I get gushy, she says that Krakow is not so remarkable, that there is a lot of bureaucracy, and people love to complain here. She said entrepreneurial culture is not growing fast enough. But she has seen this place all her life, living in the shadow of Wawel Castle, walking these streets with their carriages and their 15th-century architecture and the intellectual atmosphere.

芭芭拉在克拉科夫土生土长，是受过专业训练的律师、音乐家和译者。当我对此地感动溢于言表之际，她却开口说，克拉科夫其实没那么好，因为这里官僚主义盛行，民众动不动就申诉；她还表示，企业文化也发展得不够快。不过，这一切她都有亲身的体验（译注：因此作者觉得她的感想就会有几分真实性），她在瓦维尔城堡阴影之下生活，走过的街道有马车行经，还矗立着十五世纪建筑，并弥漫着知性的气息。

Much to do  吃喝玩乐走透透（译注：直译为有很多事情可作）

My hotel is on a main street in the old town, which thankfully allows no cars. My room has white lace curtains at the enormous windows. They open up to the cobblestone street below. At night, I hear people strolling past and slips of music. Several times a day, I stop and listen for the trumpet and am reassured.

我住的饭店位于古镇的大街上，幸运的是，街上禁止汽车通行。我的房间窗户很大，还有白色蕾丝窗帘，从窗口往下望，可以看到鹅卵石街道。在夜里，会听到人们走过的窸窣声，以及零星的音乐声。我每天有好几次都会停下手边的事，然后倾听小号声，这能让我感到很安心。

I eat pierogi. Sit at sidewalk cafes. Wander bookstores. Visit lots of churches, including a must-see stop at St. Francis Basilica, with its Art Nouveau stained glass window, done by a local artist in about 1900.

我尝到了波兰水饺，也会在人行道上的咖啡座闲坐，或是逛逛书店；此外，也去过好几间教堂参观，其中也包括必看的景点：圣方济教堂，里头有新艺术派的彩色镶嵌玻璃，是当地一位艺术家在一九００年左右所创的。

History is piled upon history here. Walk to the Kazimierz district, and you can see the Pilsudski Bridge, where Polish Jews were forced by the Nazis to cross to a ghetto in 1941. High on a hill above downtown is the kindly-looking Wawel Castle, which was home to centuries of Polish kings and queens and is now a museum full of ancient huge tapestries, furniture, royal apartments, a chapel and a famous bell tower.

在这儿，历史层层堆砌。走在卡兹米尔犹太区，可以看到毕苏斯基桥，一九四四年时，纳粹党羽逼迫波兰籍犹太人走过这条桥，进入犹太区。闹区上方的山丘上，高踞着慈祥的（译注：本篇为作者旅游经历的抒情文，因此偶尔会穿插一些属于个人感受或富于诗意的用语）瓦维尔城堡，数百年来，这里曾是波兰王公贵族的家，如今则成了博物馆，里头满是历史悠久的巨大织锦、家具，还有王室的宫室、一座教堂，以及著名的钟塔。

But in Krakow, you really don’t need to rush around. Stroll. Take a million pictures. Linger at a café. Absorb. Enjoy.

不过，来到克拉科夫，不必行色匆匆，放慢脚步而行，尽情摄影，驻足咖啡店，吸收此地精华，享受一切吧！

−by Ellen Creager

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bargain [ˋbɑrgən] v. 讨价还价[（+with/over/about）]

ornament [ˋɔrnəmənt] n. 装饰品

lambskin [ˋlæm͵skɪn] n. 小羊皮

rug [rʌg] n.（铺于室内部分地面上的）小地毯；毛皮地毯

gushy [ˋgʌʃɪ] adj. 易动感情的

cobblestone [ˋkɑb!͵ston] n. 圆石；鹅卵石

a slip of  一点  small, little, tiny

reassured [͵riəˋʃʊrd] adj.（通常指得到帮忙或建议后）放心的，安心的

pierogi [pɪˈroɡi] n.（用肉、鱼、鸡、蛋和蔬菜等做馅子的）饺子形馅饼   a semicircular dumpling with any of various fillings, crimped to seal the edge and then boiled or fried

basilica [bəˋzɪlɪkə] n. 长方形会堂, 长方形教堂

nouveau 新近到达的，新近产生的

ghetto [ˋgɛto] n. 犹太人居住区;贫民区; 少数族裔聚居区

tapestry [ˋtæpɪstrɪ] n. 绣帷；挂毯

chapel [ˋtʃæp!] n.（学校、医院、王宫等的）附属礼拜堂

rush around 东奔西跑; 到处乱闯; 到处奔忙  to try to do a lot of things or to go to a lot of places in a short period of time

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Vocabulary Focus

emigrate [ˋɛmə͵gret] v. 移居外国（或外地区）[（+from/to）]to leave a country permanently and go to live in another one

oppression [əˋprɛʃən] n. 压迫，压制 when people are governed in an unfair and cruel way and prevented from having opportunities and freedom

cachet [kæˋʃe] n. 特征；纪念邮戳  a quality, which marks someone or something as special and worth respect and admiration

buzz [bʌz] v.【口】匆忙行走，忙乱 to move quickly and busily; bustle; to be filled with excitement, activity, or sounds

hawk [hɔk] v. 叫卖；兜售 to sell goods informally in public places

bureaucracy [bjʊˋrɑkrəsɪ] n.（总称）官僚 a system for controlling or managing a country that is operated by a large number of officials who are employed to follow rules carefully

linger [ˋlɪŋgɚ] v. 继续逗留，徘徊  to take longer than usual to leave

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