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Winter in Switzerland 瑞士的白色假期

 

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A snowy holiday in the Alps doesn’t just mean skiing  在阿尔卑斯山度过下雪的白色假期，可不一定指滑雪喔

 

In the end, my friends and I didn’t really do much skiing last winter in Switzerland. We were too busy soaking in delicious hot water pools, riding funny little snowbikes down mountains, deciding whether to buy a Swiss watch in an ice palace at the “top of the world.” Oh yes, and eating more kinds of cheese than I knew existed.

我朋友和我去年冬天到瑞士，但最后其实花在滑雪上的时间并不多，因为我们忙着泡在舒适宜人的温水池子里，还坐着好玩的小自行车滑下山，也曾在「世界之巅」（译注：此指欧洲之巅少女峰）的冰宫里考虑该不该买一只瑞士表。喔！当然也少不了吃式各样的起司啰，我都不知道瑞士居然有那么多种起司耶。

 

Leukerbad is not high on the “Swiss tourist destinations” list. It’s a typical small mountain village with 1,200 people, cobblestone streets that rise and drop at alarming angles, charming old houses built of sturdy pine with carved gnomes on the doorsteps, and baths. Lots of baths.

如果有「瑞士旅游景点」排行榜的话，那么洛加伯特的排名应该不会很高。这是个典型的小山村，人口为一千两百，鹅卵石街道以令人心惊胆跳的角度高低起伏，以强韧松木制成的老房子漂亮极了，而门前台阶上还放着雕刻的小矮人塑像，此外，还有水疗池，非常多的水疗池。

 

Over the last 500 years, people have been coming here for the town’s healing waters. In fact, when you buy a combo ski ticket, it also gets you into the three local spas.

过去五百年来，人们络绎不绝来到这个城镇，体验水疗；事实上，如果买滑雪套票的话，还能体验到当地三个不同的水疗池喔！

 

The Swiss lifestyle  瑞士的生活方式

 

Skiing in Europe is not just hitting the slopes. Rather, it’s hefty breakfasts, an hour ride on a local train, maybe two hours on the slopes followed by two hours over good food. Then maybe another hour on the slopes before hot chocolate, a sauna and dinner.

在瑞士滑雪其实不只是到斜坡上滑而已，而是还包括了丰盛的早餐、在当地搭一小时的火车、然后说不定在斜坡上滑个两小时、接下来再享用美食两小时；之后，说不定再花一小时在斜坡上滑雪，而后以热巧克力饮、桑拿浴和晚餐画下句点。

 

We skied ourselves into exhaustion that first day, then wound down into town, grabbed our bathing suits and headed for Burgerbad to float in a thermal pool. Another night, it was off to the Alpentherme pool where we again floated in hot water.

我们头一天就滑雪滑到精疲力尽，之后就走下蜿蜒的路，一直走到镇上，一把抓起我们的浴衣，就朝向布鲁卡巴特迈进，徜徉在温热的水疗池里。另一个晚上，我们则跑到阿尔卑斯温泉池子里，同样又是漂浮在热呼呼的泉水里。

 

 

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delicious [dɪˋlɪʃəs] adj. 妙的，有趣的

sturdy [ˋstɝdɪ] adj. 坚固的，经久耐用的; 结实的

gnome [nom] n. 矮人; 地精，土地神 an imaginary, very small, old man with a beard and a pointed hat, in traditional children’s stories; statues of them are often found in gardens

doorstep [ˋdor͵stɛp] n.【建】门阶

combo [ˋkɑmbo] n.【美】【口】结合（物）; 套餐

exhaustion [ɪgˋzɔstʃən] n. 耗尽；枯竭；精疲力竭

thermal [ˋθɝm!] adj. 温泉的; 热的 connected with, or preserving heat

 

 

 

 

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Dairy heaven  奶制品的天堂

 

In addition to creating relaxing baths and watching other people’s money, the Swiss do something else incredibly well: cows. Cows are what sustained the Swiss over the centuries. The milk, the butter, the yogurt and the tiny milkshakes at the breakfast are incredible.

瑞士除了打造出让人松弛身心的水疗池，和（开银行）替别人看管金钱之外，还出产另一种超棒的好东西：那就是母牛。即使说瑞士数百年来的经济命脉就是靠母牛维持的也不为过。早餐的牛奶、奶油、优酪和超小杯奶昔，全都美味极了。

 

After four days of baths, milk and a bit of skiing, it was on to Grindelwald. If Leukerbad is off the beaten path, Grindelwald stands firmly in the middle of the trail. This is the iconic Swiss town, known around the world.

连续四天享受泡水疗池、狂饮牛奶和小试滑雪之后，就该去格林德瓦了。如果说洛加伯特是比较乏人问津的景点，那么格林德瓦就是观光胜地了，它是具有代表性的瑞士城镇，举世闻名。

 

“We have the same number of cows, sheep and goats as we had 100 years ago,” a local said proudly. “Rent-a-cow” is wildly popular for those who don’t have their own. For as little as 50 Swiss francs, you get a percentage of a local bovine which means you get a percentage of its cheese.

「我们这里的母牛、绵羊和山羊，头数和一百年前一样，」一名当地人自豪地说。「租母牛」非常受到少数没养牛的民众的欢迎。只要区区五十瑞士法郎，就能租用一只当地母牛的一小部份，这是指能得到（由牠的奶所制成的）部份起司。

 

A unique ski experience  与众不同的滑雪体验

 

Skiing near Grindelwald is more than just sliding down the hills. At the end of the day, the trip back to town is a very special journey. You start at the very top, threading tracks through a world of white, then gradually coming back to civilization past rustic wood huts that hold cows for the winter, past the tinkle of goat bells, past small farmer cabins, then down roads, over bridges and through tunnels, finally skiing into people’s backyards and along city streets.

在格林德瓦附近滑雪，不只是滑下山坡而已，因为最后回去镇上的路途，真的好特别，先从山顶出发，然后踏着步道穿越白雪皑皑的天地，然后逐渐回到文明世界，期间会经过一些畜养母牛过冬的简朴木棚舍，耳边听到叮当响的山羊铃铛，走过农家的小木屋，然后往下继续走，穿过桥梁，行经隧道，最后滑雪滑进别人家的后院，再沿着城市街道游走。

 

But, of course, skiing is not the whole story here. Forty percent of winter visitors to Grindelwald don’t even ski. So, the next day we did the James Bond breakfast at Piz Gloria, an amazing revolving restaurant high in the mountains in the Schilthorn area.

不过，滑雪当然不是这里唯一可做的事。冬季来到格林德瓦的游客中，有四成的人根本不滑雪。次日，我们就到雪尔松地区，在高踞山间、令人叹为观止的匹兹葛罗丽雅旋转餐厅，享用００七詹姆斯．庞德式的早餐。

 

It’s been 40 years since the James Bond movie On Her Majesty’s Secret Service filmed its now famous ski chase and jumps here. The view from the revolving restaurant is breathtaking.

００七电影《女王密使》在这里拍摄至今名气不坠的滑雪追逐和跳跃场景，已经是四十年前的事了，但从旋转餐厅往外看到的景观，仍旧美得令人屏息。

 

 

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milkshake [͵mɪlkˋʃek] n. 奶昔；泡沫牛奶（牛奶、冰淇淋等混搅起泡的饮料）

franc [fræŋk] n.（法国、瑞士、比利时等国的货币单位）法郎

bovine [ˋbovaɪn] n. 牛科动物 a cow

thread [θrɛd] v. 通，通过；穿过[（+with/through）]

hut [hʌt] n.（简陋的）小屋

tinkle [ˋtɪŋk!] n. 叮当声，铃铃声

cabin [ˋkæbɪn] n. 小屋

Her Majesty 女王陛下；皇家；女皇陛下

 

 

 

 

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Off the slopes  下坡

 

There are places that say they look like the Swiss Alps, but until you have been here, you can’t possibly understand what the Alps really are. The mountains rise before you, a towering wall of spare, snow-covered rock. You can see the blue of glacier ice and the folds of uplift. It is beyond huge.

虽然有一些地方自称很像瑞士境内的阿尔卑斯山，可是除非你亲自来到这里，不然就无法了解阿尔卑斯山的真正面貌。重山就在你面前升起，只见朴实、白雪覆盖的岩石高耸如墙。此外，还可以看到蓝色的冰河，以及地壳隆起处中间的洼地，一切都浩瀚得令人难以想象。

 

Another popular non-ski activity is the cog train. We caught it to Kleine Scheidegg and on to Jungfraujoch, Europe’s highest train station at 11,333 feet. Some 7.5 km of the 9.3 km ride is through a tunnel, and the top part alone took 16 years to build at a cost of what today would be $25 million per kilometer.

另一种受欢迎的非滑雪活动则是齿轮火车，我们搭这种火车前往克恩莱夏戴克，然后去少女峰的欧洲最高火车站，海拔一万一千三百三十三呎，全长九点三公里的路线中，约有七点五公里是在隧道中，而光是上端部份的路线就足足花了十六年才建造完成，而造价以今日的币值换算高达每公里两千五百万美元之谱。

 

There’s a weather station up here, an observation deck with unparalleled views of the glacier, a booth that allows you to send picture e-mails to your friends, and an ice palace with sculptures of igloos, penguins, eagles, not to mention a concession stand selling Swiss watches.

山上有气象台，而观景台眺望到冰河景观更是无与伦比，有个小亭让你把附有图片的电子邮件寄给朋友，还有一座冰宫展示着爱斯基摩式的圆顶冰屋、企鹅、老鹰，还有一个卖瑞士表的小摊子就更不必说了，这是一定要的啦！

 

On our last day, we tried something called a velogemel, a wooden snowbike that locals have used for centuries. It’s a simple wood saddle, handlebars and skis instead of wheels, and it works exactly like a bicycle. We slid down the mountain, gliding around curves and floating alongside trees. It was a blast.

我们最后一天行程中，试乘了一种称为velogemel的木制雪地自行车，当地人数百年来都使用这种交通工具。它有着简单的木制车座、把手，而滑雪板则取代了轮子，作用就和自行车一模一样。我们乘着它滑下山，沿着弯道滑行，又在树林间穿梭，玩得尽兴极了。

 

I also went in search of a good, strong local cheese. We couldn’t find a cheese shop so we stopped in a bakery for directions.

我也不忘去寻找美味浓郁的当地起司，可是却找不到起司店，于是就到一家面包店问路。

 

“Oh, my father has cheese in his sport shop,” a girl said as she paid for her bread.

「喔，我爸爸的运动品店里有起司，」正在付账买面包的女孩如此说道。

 

Sure enough, across the street her mum Kathy smiled and excused herself to rummage in the basement, coming up shortly with a half kilo wedge.

果不其然，她的妈妈凯蒂就在对街微笑着，然后说到地下室去找一下，没多久就拿着半公斤的一片起司上来了。

 

Who made the cheese?  这起司是谁做的？

“We did.”  「我们做的。」

You have cows?  你们家有养母牛吗？

“Of course. Four.”  「没错，养了四只。」

Doesn’t everyone?  也对啊，这里哪家不养牛啊！

 

−by Yvette Cardozo

 

 

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fold [fold] n.（山谷等的）坑洼

uplift [ʌpˋlɪft] n.（地壳的）上升

beyond huge【口】惊人的，可观的 colossal, gigantic, stupendous

cog train 齿轮火车 a railway with a toothed rail, usually located between the running rails, that meshes together with a toothed wheel and helps move the train up steep inclines

cog [kɑg] n.【机】钝齿

observation [͵ɑbzɝˋveʃən] n. 观察；观测

booth [buθ] n. 亭, 摊棚

igloo [ˋɪglu] n. 冰屋; 圆屋顶的小屋

concession stand 货摊，商摊

concession [kənˋsɛʃən] n.【美】（在指定地点的）营业权，商场使用权；营业场所

saddle [ˋsæd!] n.（自行车，摩托车等的）车座

excuse [ɪkˋskjuz] v. 准许……离去；让……走开

wedge [wɛdʒ] n. (水果、奶酪等)楔形物; （用来固定门的）楔子，三角木

 

 

 

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alarming [əˋlɑrmɪŋ] adj. 令人担忧的; 使人惊慌的 causing worry or fear

hefty [ˋhɛftɪ] adj.（体积、重量或数量）巨大的 large in amount or size

wind [waɪnd] v. 蜿蜒；迂回 to follow a route, which turns repeatedly in different directions

sustain [səˋsten] v. 维持，使…持续 to cause or allow something to continue for a period of time

off the beaten path  不为人所知的；鲜有人涉足的；去的人不多的 a place that is away from the frequently traveled routes and not known by many people; remote from populous or much-traveled regions

iconic [aɪˋkɑnɪk] adj. 代表性的，指标性的 referring to a very famous thing considered as representing a way of life

rustic [ˋrʌstɪk] adj. 乡村的；质朴的 simple and often rough in appearance; typical of the countryside

spare [spɛr] adj. 简单的; 不加修饰的; 简朴的 plain and not decorated

unparalleled [ʌnˋpærə͵lɛld] adj. 无比的；无双的；空前未有的 having no equal; better or greater than any other

a blast [blæst] n. 有趣的事；开心的事；乐趣 an exciting and enjoyable experience

rummage [ˋrʌmɪdʒ] v. 在……里翻找；仔细搜查  to search for something by moving things around without care and looking into, under, and behind them

 

 

Grindelwald, Switzerland

 

Switzerland 16 (Camera on board) Grindelwald (BE) Nature

 

Piz Gloria skiing the Schilthorn

 

On Her Majesty's Secret Service - Trailer (2007)

 

Kleine Scheidegg, Wengernalpbahn

 

 

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The Jungfraubahn Railway

Velogemel