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Honolulu: The Heart of Hawaii 檀香山：夏威夷之心

详细资料: 创建于 2009年8月24日; 最后更新于 2024年5月25日; 发布于 2012年3月20日; 作者：Mike Lee; 点击数：280

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Discover the rich history and culture of this tropical paradise 一探这处热带天堂的丰富历史和文化

As our plane circled, making its final descent into the Honolulu airport, the woman in the seat next to me asked, “Which of the outer islands are you going on to?”

正当我们所搭乘的飞机盘旋在半空中，准备降落在檀香山（译注：或译火奴鲁鲁）机场之际，坐在我身旁的女士问我说：「你要去哪座外岛啊？」

When I answered that I planned to stay in Honolulu, on Oahu, she looked at me in disbelief and said, “Oh, I never stay there. I just find it too touristy.”

等我回答说，我计划去欧胡岛的檀香山之后，她难以置信地望着我，并说：「哦，我绝对不会去那里，我觉得那里的观光色彩太浓了。」

Well, everyone has a right to an opinion, and the outer islands are indeed spectacular, but I couldn’t help but think that her comment was akin to saying, “Yes, I’m going to France, but I’m skipping Paris because it’s too touristy.”

嗯，每个人都有权发表高见，而夏威夷几座外岛的确都很引人入胜，不过，我不禁心想，她这番批评好比是在说：「没错，我要去法国，但却会跳过巴黎不去，因为那里观光气息太过浓厚了。」

In some respects, my seatmate’s observations are correct: Waikiki Beach is now known more for its high-rise hotels than its sand; a stroll through the upscale shopping district along Kalakaua Avenue might put one in mind of New York’s Fifth Avenue, and the city has become a hot spot for restaurants, thanks to the fusion cuisine of chefs Alan Wong, Roy Yamaguchi and Sam Choy.

就某些层面而言，我邻座的意见也不算错：例如威基基海滩如今已改以高耸的饭店着称，锋头甚至胜过了沙滩本身；而在卡拉卡乌瓦大道的高级购物区漫步，则可能会让人联想到纽约的第五大道；而拜亚伦．王、罗伊．山口和山姆．乔伊等擅长融合各地不同料理精华（译注：或译无国界料理）的名厨之赐，市区已经成了餐厅林立的胜地。

But Honolulu is more than the sum of its parts; it is the heart of the island chain, the scene of King Kamehameha’s victory over warring chiefs and the subsequent uniting of the islands. It is the repository of Hawaii’s history, art and culture, and to miss it is, to me, unthinkable.

不过，檀香山的整体价值其实高过于各项组成元素的总和，它可说是夏威夷群岛的心脏地带，是卡美哈美哈国王（译注：约一七三七至一七五八年间出生，一八一九年殁。他出生之前，夏威夷民间传说未来会统一群岛的国王，出生时会有彗星异象。虽然后来卡美哈美哈诞生时，父母偷偷把他送给别人抚养，实际诞生的年份不详，但据说他出生时，有哈雷彗星出现，而夏威夷在一七五八年可以看到哈雷彗星，因此这也可能是其出生年。后来卡美哈美哈果然于一八一０年统一各岛）在这里战胜各个相互交战的首领，继而统一夏威夷群岛。檀香山是汇集夏威夷历史、艺术和文化的宝库，因此对我来说，来到夏威夷，却错过这个贵宝地，简直令人难以想象。

The Bishop Museum 比夏博物馆（译注：于一八八九年由Charles Reed Bishop为纪念已故妻子所成立，Bishop为其姓氏，而非主教之意）

An ideal place to get an understanding of Hawaii’s history and a sense of its vibrant culture is the Bishop Museum. Visitors can marvel at an eclectic collection of objects – elaborate feather fans, plant and animal specimens, and the restoration of a Hale Pili, the only surviving example of an authentic Hawaiian grass hut. However, the real centerpiece of the museum is the Hawaiian Hall, which houses the most sacred treasures of the Hawaiian people.

若想深入了解夏威夷的历史和活力旺盛的文化，「比夏博物馆」就是理想所在。访客会对这里收藏的各式各样艺术品叹为观止──其中包括了精致的羽扇、动植物标本和修复完好的「哈里皮利」，后者即世上硕果仅存、真正地道的夏威夷草屋。不过，博物馆主要的陈列馆则是夏威夷厅，里头收藏了夏威夷民族心目中最神圣的宝物。

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touristy [ˋtʊrəstɪ] adj. 挤满游客的; 旅游开发过度的 Informal, often derogatory abounding in or designed for tourists; describing a place that is unattractive because a lot of tourists visit it and full of things for them to buy and do

respect [rɪˋspɛkt] n. 方面，着眼点

put someone in mind of something 使某人想起...to cause one to think of something, usually because of a similarity

hot spot 热闹的地区

warring [ˋwɔrɪŋ] adj. 交战的；相争的；敌对的

subsequent [ˋsʌbsɪ͵kwɛnt] adj. 后来的，其后的，随后的

eclectic [ɛˋklɛktɪk] adj. 兼收并蓄的 combining the best things from many different areas or styles, rather than following a single system

restoration [͵rɛstəˋreʃən] n. 修复；复原；整修；重建

hut [hʌt] n.（简陋的）小屋

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‘Iolani Palace 依欧拉尼宫

Along with the Bishop Museum, Honolulu’s most iconic structure is ‘Iolani Palace, the only royal palace on American soil. It was the official residence of King David Kalakaua and Queen Kapi’olani from 1882 until the king’s death in 1891, and after that, of his sister and successor, Queen Lili’uokalani, until her tragic end. The palace exemplifies the expression “if these walls could talk.”

「依欧拉尼宫」和「比夏博物馆」并列为檀香山代表性建筑。「依欧拉尼宫」是美国领土上唯一的皇室宫殿，也是卡拉卡乌瓦国王和卡皮欧拉妮皇后自一八八二年起至国王于一八九一年驾崩为止的官方居所，之后则成为国王的妹妹与继任者莉莉乌欧卡拉妮皇后的寝宫，直到她悲剧性地辞世为止。这座宫殿（译注：由于见证了夏威夷王室的悲欢离合）可说是「如果这些墙壁会说话」这句俗语的最佳例子（译注：if these walls could talk意思是如果那里的墙壁会说话的话；后面有时会接they would say 或whisper或tell…，意思是：那么这些墙壁就会诉说…。墙壁当然不会说话，这用语是代表某建筑或某处地方发生了许许多多的故事。）

If they could, they would tell visitors happy tales of grand balls in the Throne Room, where elegant guests danced until dawn, and sad tales of Queen Lili’uokalani, who was held prisoner in an upstairs bedroom after being accused by the new republic’s government of conspiring in a plot to restore the monarchy.

如果这宫殿的墙壁真的会说话的话，它们就会向访客吐露在宝座室举行的大型舞会的快乐故事，诉说优雅的宾客跳舞直到天明的轶事，并且也会娓娓道出莉莉乌欧卡拉妮皇后的悲惨故事，她被新成立的共和国政府控诉密谋恢复君主霸权，因而被软禁在宫内楼上一处卧房中（译注：在莉莉乌欧卡拉妮皇后任内，Dole发动革命并于一八九四年结束君主政权成立共和国，而后于一八九八年并入美国，一直到一九五九年，夏威夷才正式成为美国第五十州。）

Visitors can take the grand tour of the palace – from the carved staircase of native koa wood in the entrance hall to the Throne Room and the upstairs bedrooms.

访客可以饱览这座宫殿──从宝座室入口大厅用土生夏威夷相思树雕成的阶梯，乃至于到楼上寝室都可一览无遗。

Summer Palace 夏宫

Two other sites where visitors can experience the essence of early Hawaii are Queen Emma Summer Palace and the Mission Houses Museum. The summer palace, in the lush Nu’uanu Valley, 5 miles from downtown Honolulu, was home to the consort of King Kamehameha IV. Unlike ‘Iolani, this is not a palatial dwelling but a modest white cottage, and if it looks vaguely New England in style, that’s because it is.

观光客还可以在另两处地方体验到早期夏威夷的精髓，那就是埃玛王妃的夏宫和「传教士之家博物馆」。夏宫位于青葱的奴安努山谷，距檀香山闹区五哩之处，它过去是国王卡美哈美哈四世王妃埃玛的寝宫。和「依欧拉尼宫」不同的是，这座夏宫并非宫殿般的建筑，而是相当朴素的白色别墅，如果感觉建筑看起来似乎隐约透露出新英格兰式风格的话，那是因为它本来就是采用这种风格而建造的。

Built on the East Coast, it was transported around Cape Horn and assembled in its present location in 1848. The grounds, however, are purely Hawaiian – verdant with candlenut, mango and tamarind trees, the fragrant laua’e fern, and the liko-lehua, whose blossoms are a favorite for making leis.

建筑本身是先在美国东海岸打造，然后船运绕过合恩角，并在一八四八年于现址组装完成。不过，建筑四周土地的一切则都来自夏威夷本土──绿意盎然得点缀着桐树、芒果和罗望子树、芳香的劳依（音译）蕨类植物以及编制夏威夷花环最喜采用的里柯－李华（音译）花。

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if these walls could talk 如果这些墙能说话 it’s in reference to history. Meaning the walls could tell you all the things that have happened inside the house; used for saying that many interesting things have happened in a room or building, although you do not know all the details

hold [hold] v. 关押; 扣留

conspire [kənˋspaɪr] v. 同谋，密谋[（+with/against）][+to-v]

monarchy [ˋmɑnɚkɪ] n. 君主政治，君主政体 the system of having a king or queen

grand tour【口】观光旅行；游览 a comprehensive tour or survey

consort [ˋkɑnsɔrt] n.（尤指国王、女王的）配偶 a wife or husband, especially of a ruler

dwelling [ˋdwɛlɪŋ] n. 住处，住宅，寓所

modest [ˋmɑdɪst] adj. (房屋等)不太大的，不算昂贵的，普通的

candlenut [ˋkænd!͵nʌt] n.【植】桐树；桐实

tamarind [ˋtæmə͵rɪnd] n.【植】罗望子

lei [ˋleɪ] n.（夏威夷人戴于颈上的）花环 a Hawaiian word describing a traditional floral garland

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Mission Houses 「传教士之家博物馆」

The Mission Houses Museum tells the story not of royalty but of the missionaries who came from New England in the 1820s to bring Christianity to the islanders. The Mission Houses complex consists of three houses from the period, authentically furnished and open for public tours.

「传教士之家博物馆」则和夏威夷王室无关，而是有关那些在一八二０年代远从美国新英格兰（译注：美国东北部六州的统称）来到这里的宣教士，他们把基督教福音传给了夏威夷岛民。「传教士之家」的综合建筑包含了三座当时的房屋，里头的装潢摆设也都合乎当年应有的样貌，并开放给大众参观。

Shangri La 香格里拉

Hawaii might revere its history as few states on the mainland do, but the island hasn’t ignored its arts heritage either. Venue after venue showcases the art, traditional and contemporary, that makes up what those in the arts like to refer to as “arts with aloha.”

夏威夷或许相当以其独特的历史自豪，因为其他位居美洲大陆的美国各州均无出其右，不过，夏威夷也并没有忽视其文化传统。展示着夏威夷传统及当代艺术的场所，一处接着一处，令人目不暇给，汇集而成艺术界人士口中所说的「阿啰哈艺术」（译注：为夏威夷招呼语。「阿啰哈艺术」为欧胡岛的艺术计划，集结了十八间艺文机构，共同宣传推动夏威夷文化艺术）。

Perhaps the most magnificent of all is Shangri La, the opulent former home of tobacco heiress Doris Duke and now a museum of Islamic art.

或许其中最壮观的就是「香格里拉」（译注：Shangri-La原为英国作家James Hilton于一九三三年出版的小说中Lost Horizon虚构的世外桃源），也就是烟草女继承人朵瑞丝．杜克曾住过的豪宅，如今则改做回教艺术博物馆。

I had long wanted to see Shangri La, and it proved to be everything I had imagined. In a spectacular setting overlooking the Pacific Ocean and Diamond Head, the museum is a reflection, as the promotional literature says, “of Doris Duke’s passion for collecting and living with Islamic art.”

我一直都很想去香格里拉一探究竟，而这次实地参观的感受，也完全符合我先前的期待。博物馆的所在位置令人叹为观止，能俯瞰太平洋和钻石头山，其文宣中描述，博物馆能反映出「朵瑞丝．杜克很热爱收集和让自己身旁环绕着回教艺术品」。

That passion comes to life in the Indian Mughal garden, the playhouse, modeled after a royal pavilion in Iran, and especially in the 14,000-square-foot main house, built around a central courtyard open to the sky and furnished with 3,500 objets d’art from Iran, Morocco, Turkey, Spain, Syria, Egypt and India. My first thought after being shown around the property was that Shangri La was well named, and my second was that the woman on the plane who thought Honolulu wasn’t worth a visit had no idea what she was missing.

足迹所到之处，不难感受到朵瑞丝的那股热爱彷佛又活过来了，像是印度蒙兀儿式的花园、模仿伊朗王室亭子所打造的游戏屋（译注：虽名为游戏屋，但当时用途为娱乐间及客房），尤其是面积达一万四千平方呎、环绕中庭而建的主建筑，里头装饰了三千五百件来自伊朗、摩洛哥、土耳其、西班牙、叙利亚、埃及和印度的艺术品。参观这处地方时，脑海里所浮现的第一个念头是，香格里拉这个名字取得真好，接下来我就想到，飞机上那位对檀香山不屑一顾的邻座女士，还不知道自己已经错失了大好良机了。

－by Patti Nickell

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heiress [ˋɛrɪs] n. 女继承人 a woman or girl who will receive or already has received a lot of money, property or a title from another person when that person dies

long [lɔŋ] adv. 始终

promotional literature 宣传刊物; 宣传推广资料

come to life 苏醒过来; 表现生动; 变得活跃 to become vigorous or lively

Mughal [ˈmuɡʌl] n. 蒙兀儿 also Moghul [ˈmogəl] or Mughal

model [ˋmɑd!] v. 使模仿[（+on/upon/after）]

pavilion [pəˋvɪljən] n.（公园、花园中的）亭子，凉亭；阁

courtyard [ˋkortˋjɑrd] n. 庭院；天井

objet d’art【法】艺术品 an object of artistic merit; an object, usually a small object, considered to have some worth or value as art