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That’s Bergen 徜徉卑尔根

详细资料: 创建于 2010年5月03日; 最后更新于 2024年5月25日; 发布于 2012年4月29日; 作者：Mike Lee; 点击数：414

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This former capital of Norway is home to a world-renowned wharf known for its centuries-old Hansa merchant buildings and spectacular mountains 前挪威首都的卑尔根，坐落着一处举世知名的码头，以拥有数百年历史的汉萨商会大楼和壮观的重山闻名

One can explore thousands of years of history in this World Heritage City – from the legacy of King Olaf III Haraldsson Kyree (nicknamed Olav the Quiet for his peaceful reign in the 11th century), founder of Bergen, to the Hanseatic merchants who ran the wharf (Bryggen) from the 14th to 18th century. I’d planned on making the rounds of the various historic sites, but those plans quickly became “history” when I was sidetracked by a crowd gathered around a dozen accordion players performing folk songs on the wharf in honor of Market Day. This annual cultural event is just one day, so the old history would have to wait.

在卑尔根这个世界遗产之都（译注：市内的布里根被列为世界遗产）里，可以探索其数千年历史──包括创立了卑尔根的国王奥拉夫三世哈洛德森．凯尔（因其在第十一世纪的和平统治而被昵称为安静国王）的遗产，乃至于十四世纪至十八世纪期间经营码头（布里根）的汉萨（同盟）商会商人。我原本计划在各个不同的历史遗址四处游览，但这些计划很快就成为「过往云烟」（译注：此history指过去的事件，或是已经被遗忘或不再重要的事情。作者用来和前面提到的数千年历史玩文字游戏），因为后来我看到大批群众而转移了目标，人们集结在十来位在码头演奏民谣音乐的手风琴乐手四周，庆祝着市集节。这个每年一度的文化活动为期仅有一天，所以古老历史就得等一等了。

Traditions alive and well 传统焕然新生

The Market Day celebration on the first Saturday in June commemorates the old times with traditional music and food and seems to attract all 250,000 Bergensers and lots of accordions. Aromas of sweet milk pancakes cooking on outdoor griddles waft through the air, locals come clad in bunads, their elaborately embroidered national costume, and boats of all kinds fill the harbor. The Bryggen’s dozens of tall narrow medieval buildings, rebuilt after the Great Fire of 1702, make an ideal setting for the old-style market traders and their exhibits.

在六月的第一个星期六举行的市集日，以传统音乐和食物来庆祝往昔时光，似乎吸引了卑尔根全市二十五万居民共襄盛举，还有很多手风琴乐手参与其中。在户外浅锅中煎煮的甜牛奶煎饼，香味在空中飘散，前来的当地人穿着纹饰精美的挪威传统服饰邦纳德，而海港里则停满了各式各样船只。布里根区内数十栋高窄中世纪建筑，曾在一七０二年大火后重建，如今成了古早味十足的市集商贩和展售品的最佳背景。

As I enjoy the entertainment and other once-a-year Market Day festivities, I also take in Bergen’s everyday attractions that line this wharf. Fabulous seafood displays catch my eye and appetite as I look inside the tents that make up the year-round outdoor Fish Market. The sound of a drum roll and whistle means the Buekorps are coming, and that’s an act I know I want to catch. Bergen’s 150-year-old tradition keeps boys and girls marching through town on a regular basis in the summer.

我在享受余兴节目和其他一年一度的市集日庆祝活动之际，也不忘吸纳体验卑尔根沿着码头的日常迷人景观。这儿全年都有户外鱼市，我从鱼市帐篷中望去，只见超棒的海鲜展售品吸引着我的目光和食欲。鼓声和哨音的声音，意味着弓箭手队来临了，我知道自己决不想错过这项表演。卑尔根弓箭手队是个拥有一百五十年历史的传统，男孩和女孩成员会于夏季定期在市区内行进。

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Bergen [ˈbərɡən] n. 卑尔根（挪威西南部港市）

Hansa（中世纪）商业同业公会（会费）a trade association of northern European merchants during 600AD to 1500 AD

accordion [əˋkɔrdɪən] n. 手风琴

commemorate [kəˋmɛmə͵ret] v. 庆祝；纪念

griddle [ˋgrɪd!] n. 煎饼用浅锅

waft [wæft] v.【文】吹送；飘送

clad [klæd] adj. 穿……衣服的；被……覆盖的[（+in）]

embroidered [ɪmˈbrɔɪdəd] adj. 有刺绣的; 绣上的

medieval [͵mɪdɪˋivəl] adj. 中世纪的；中古风的 related to the Middle Ages, the period in European history from about 600 AD to 1500 AD

take in 参观, 参加, 观赏 to look at thoroughly; view

line [laɪn] v. 沿……排列

drum roll 一连串击鼓；一连串击鼓声，擂鼓声

roll [rol] n. 擂鼓声；隆隆声

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Bergen by the book 按图索骥游卑尔根

Going with the flow is great on Market Day, but it really takes a guidebook to know which museums to see, in spite of a local friend’s assertion that the whole wharf is a museum. It also helps to have a guidebook on hand if you want to walk or catch a ride up to two of Bergen’s seven surrounding mountains. A seven-minute ride from the city center on the Floibanen Funicular brings me to the top of Mount Floyen at 320 meters above sea level. Double-decker buses also shuttle riders a short distance to catch the cable car to Mount Ulriken, the tallest of the city’s seven mountains, which peaks at 634 meters.

市集节虽然也很适合随兴所至地游览，但如果想知道该去看哪些博物馆的话，真的还是要参考旅游指南才行，虽然一位当地朋友坚称，整座码头就是一座博物馆；而如果你还想要健行或搭交通工具到卑尔根七座环山中的两座，那么手边有一本旅游指南就能派上用场。从市中心搭佛洛班南缆索铁道，七分钟后我就来到了海拔三百二十公尺的佛洛炎山顶端。双层巴士也短程地来回运送乘客，以接上通往乌里根山的缆车，乌里根山是卑尔根七座山中最高的一座，顶端海拔六百四十三公尺。

While Bergen looks beguiling from these “high-points,” the urge to see western Norway’s world-famous fjords sends me back to sea level. Bergen, known as the Gateway to the Fjords, lies near thousands of them, some of which are the longest, deepest, and narrowest fjords on Earth. Book definitions of a fjord “as a long narrow inlet of the sea between high steep cliffs” only skim the surface of describing these magnificent natural phenomena where massive rock walls up to 1,400 meters high nose-dive into the icy blue Norwegian Sea. Trying to decide which ones to see boggles my mind, which makes me glad I’m taking a tour.

虽然从这些「最高点」（译注：high point原指最高潮、最快乐或最有趣的时刻或场合，但此用来和高山玩文字游戏）俯瞰的卑尔根风光确实相当诱人，但想见识挪威西部闻名于世的峡湾的强烈渴望，又把我带回了海平面的高度。被称为峡湾门户的卑尔根，邻近数千处峡湾，其中有些是地球上最长、最深和最狭窄的峡湾。峡湾的书面定义：「海中介于高陡峭壁之间的狭长小湾」其实只形容到皮毛而已，因为这些自然奇景非常壮观，最高达一千四百公尺的巨岩俯冲到冰冷的蓝色挪威海中。想敲定要去看哪些峡湾，令我犹豫不决，所以我很高兴自己参加了旅游行程。

Beyond Bergen 卑尔根更远之处

The “Norwayin a Nutshell” tour offered by Fjord Tours is the most popular roundtrip in the country. It’s reassuring to be on track with this company when it comes to going beyond the “City of the Seven Mountains” to explore the fjords or the mountainous terrain. Calling Bergen’s backyard steep is an understatement considering that the Bergen Railway is Northern Europe’s highest-altitude railway and the Flam Railway is Northern Europe’s steepest mountain railway.

峡湾旅行推出的「简明扼要游挪威」之旅，是挪威最受欢迎的来回旅游行程。如果想到「七山之都」更远的地区探索峡湾或山脉地区，那么和这家公司同行会相当令人安心。如果考虑到卑尔根铁路是北欧海拔最高的铁路，而佛兰铁路则是北欧最陡峭的山间铁路的话，那么用陡峭来形容卑尔根自家后院，其实还算是相当保守的说法。

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by the book 按常规；按规则；按规矩; 严格按照规章办事

assertion [əˋsɝʃən] n. 声称；（意见等的）坚持

funicular [fjuˋnɪkjəlɚ] n. 电缆车；缆索铁路，登山铁道 a special type of railway which travels up and down steep slopes, with the carriages being pulled by a strong metal rope

shuttle [ˋʃʌt!] v. 短程穿梭般运送

fjord [fjɔrd] n. 峡湾 a long strip of sea between steep hills, found especially in Norway

inlet [ˋɪn͵lɛt] n. 水湾；小湾；小港; 进口，入口

skim the surface 掠过水面；触及表面 to do something very superficially

nose-dive [ˋnoz͵daɪv] v. 俯冲

in a nutshell 概括地说

nutshell [ˋnʌt͵ʃɛl] n. 坚果的外壳; 小的东西；小容器

roundtrip ['raʊnd'trɪp] n.【美】环程旅行；来回旅行

reassuring [͵riəˋʃʊrɪŋ] adj. 安心的, 可靠的

on track 循着…的路线; 旅行；位于一队列中 on schedule; progressing as planned

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On the “Norway in a Nutshell” program, tourists like me head out of town on the Bergen Railway, then switch tracks at the mountain station of Myrdal to the Flam Railway for about a 6-kilometer ride down to the village of Flam. From there a boat picks up the pace for a cruise first through the Aurlandsfjord, a branch of the world’s second longest fjord, Sognefjord and then onto the Naeroyfjord, one of the narrowest fjord in Europe.

在「简明扼要游挪威」行程中，和我一样的游客们搭卑尔根铁路出城去，然后在山上的车站穆尔达换车，搭佛兰铁路而行约六公里的行程，再下到佛兰村去。从那儿，再搭船加快速度航游一番，先航经全球第二长的峡湾索格纳峡湾的分支奥兰峡湾，然后再去到全欧最峡窄的峡湾之一：奈若峡湾。

There are about a half-dozen “Nutshell” fjord tours, which makes it easy to combine some trips. I opt to jump out at Flam and pick up the Hardangerfjord tour. My first detour goes to the town of Voss for white water rafting. The next day has me back on the “fjord trail” to the village of Ulvik and then by boat across the Hardangerfjord to the village of Eidfjord. The more time spent cruising the fjords, the better.

大约有六种「简明扼要」峡湾之旅，所以结合其中几个行程并非难事。我选择在佛兰结束第一站，然后再接哈登格峡湾之旅。我第一个绕道之旅把我带到了佛斯镇，体验了白浪泛舟（译注：white water指水流湍急以致于浪花成了白色的水域）。次日我又回到了「峡湾路线」，来到乌维克村，然后又搭船穿越哈登格峡湾，来到艾德峡湾村。花在航游峡湾上的时间愈多愈好。

The fjord trail 峡湾路线

Traveling the countryside by train, bus and boat gives me ample time to drink in views of unparalleled beauty – there are waterfalls, snow-capped mountains, lakes and rivers. Flam, Ulvik and Eidfjord are quintessential fjord villages: quiet, quaint and picturesque.

搭火车、巴士和船游览乡间，让我有充裕的时间欣赏无与伦比的美丽景观──包括了瀑布、白雪覆顶的山、湖泊和河流。佛兰、乌维克和艾德峡湾都是典型的峡湾村落：宁静、古雅奇趣，同时又风景如画。

The bus trip from Eidfjord up a hairpin-mountain road to the Voringsfossen waterfall is off the fjord trail but worth the ride. This 182-meter thundering display is Norway’s largest and most famous waterfall. The neighboring century-old Fossli Hotel, a favorite of Bergen-born composer Edvard Grieg, is a famed man-made attraction. All the building materials were carried by horseback because the hotel was built 25 years before the road leading to it.

从艾德峡湾搭巴士，驶上狭窄无比的山路，去到佛林斯弗森瀑布，虽然不在峡湾路线上，却相当值得一游。这座高一百八十二公尺、发出轰隆巨响的大自然展现，是全挪威最大、也最知名的瀑布。附近有百年历史的佛斯利饭店，是卑尔根出生的作曲家葛利格（译注：一八四三～一九０七年）最爱的落脚处，也是相当有名的人造景点。所有建筑材料当年都是由马所驮运，因为饭店是在道路建好二十五年前所兴建的。

But after days on the road, it’s good to get back to Bergen, Anytime of day, so much to see, so much to do – that’s Bergen.

但在路上奔波多日之后，回到卑尔根的感觉真好。无论一天中的任何时候，这儿都有好多东西可看、可做──而这就是卑尔根。

−by Susan Zimmerman

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detour [ˋditʊr] n. 绕道；绕行的路

rafting [ˋræftɪŋ] n. 泛舟（运动）

drink in 饱览；欣赏（风景等）be fascinated or spell-bound by; pay close attention to

quaint [kwent] adj. 古雅的；奇特而有趣的

picturesque [͵pɪktʃəˋrɛsk] adj. 生动的, 如画的, 独特的

hairpin [ˋhɛr͵pɪn] n. 夹发针; adj.（道路）U字形的

thundering [ˋθʌndərɪŋ] adj. 如雷鸣的

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wharf [hwɔrf] n. 码头；停泊处 an area like a wide wall built near the edge of the sea or a river where ships can be tied and goods unload

make the rounds (of) 传遍, 走遍 to go and see several different places

sidetrack [ˋsaɪd͵træk] v. 使分散思路; 使转变话题; 使转移目标 to direst someone away from an activity toward another one that is often less important

aroma [əˋromə] n.（植物、酒、菜肴等的）芳香，香气，香味 a strong, usually pleasant smell

go with the flow 顺其自然；跟着感觉走; 随从大家的意见 to do what other people are doing because it is the easiest way

beguiling [bɪˈgaɪlɪŋ] adj. 诱人的 interesting or attractive

boggle [ˋbɑg!] v. 迟疑; 踌躇 to bewilder or give the mind great difficulty

terrain [təˋren] n. 地带 an area of land, especially when considering its nature features

understatement [ˋʌndɚ͵stetmənt] n. 保守的说法 a statement that describes something in a way that makes it seem less important or serious than it really is

pick up the pace 加快脚步 to begin to go faster and make greater progress

ample [ˋæmp!] adj. 足够的; 充裕的 more than enough

quintessential [͵kwɪntɪˋsɛnʃəl] adj. 精髓的；典型的 being the most typical example or most important of something

Bergen, Norway