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Dijon: France’s Best-kept Secret 迪戎：法国的秘密花园

（译注：直译为法国最鲜为人知的秘密）

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Escape the crowd to delight yourself in wine, mustard and medieval charm  远离尘嚣，纵情于红酒、芥末与中世纪的迷人风情

While world-famous for its mustard and its wine, the medieval city of Dijon has the reputation of being the best-kept secret in France.

迪戎这座中世纪市镇虽然以芥末与红酒闻名全球，却也以法国最鲜为人知的秘密去处着称。

About five centuries ago, Dijon was the capital of the vast Burgundy region ruled by dukes who made the city a center of arts and architecture. It is a 90-minute train ride southeast from Paris and sits on the doorstep to Burgundy’s fabled grape-growing region.

大约五百年前，迪戎原本是广阔的勃艮第地区的首府，治理当地的公爵把这座市镇塑造成艺术与建筑中心。迪戎位于巴黎东南方，搭火车要九十分钟，正位在勃艮第的传奇葡萄种植区的门坎上。

Cobblestone streets wide enough for a hay wagon still wind through the inner circle of town, leading to Dijon’s impressive displays of cathedrals, gardens, palaces, museums and gated town houses. The city’s centerpiece, the Palace of the Dukes, contains the Fine Arts Museum and looks out onto the expansive Liberation Square.

宽度足以让干草车通行的圆石街道，仍然蜿蜒交错在市中心区，通往迪戎宏伟的大教堂、花园、宫殿、博物馆与设有围篱的连栋住宅。市内最重要的建筑是公爵宫，内有美术馆，往外眺望可以看见宽广的自由广场。

The evening of my arrival in Dijon, I dined at one of its fine restaurants, then walked off dinner. Among my discoveries: Gnarly gargoyles staring down from the façade of NotreDame Cathedral; the city’s version of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris; a McDonald’s restaurant with a line of customers at the walk-up window.

我抵达迪戎的那天晚上，到镇上一家高级餐厅用餐，然后散散步好帮助消化，结果我有了好多新发现，像是长满瘤状物的怪兽石像，在圣母院正面墙上往下凝视、相当于巴黎凯旋门的拱门，还有一家麦当劳，点餐窗口前方排着长长的人龙。

Medieval and modern  中世纪与现代交融

The next day, I joined a walking tour with guide Sherry Thevenot, who explained the city’s storied past.

次日，我参加了导游雪莉．特维诺的徒步导览，她解说了这座城镇著名的历史。

“All of French history starts here in Burgundy,” Thevenot said. “It’s wonderfully situated. I can jump on a night train and be in Venice, in Rome, and it has easy access to Paris.”

「法国历史全都始于勃艮第，」特维诺说：「这里拥有绝佳的地理位置。我可以跳上一班夜间火车而去到威尼斯或罗马，至于到巴黎也同样很便利。」

单词发音

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mustard [ˋmʌstɚd] n. 芥末; 芥子酱

best-kept secret 鲜为人知的秘密 a significant fact or characteristic that is not well – known

duke [djuk] n. 公爵；（公国的）君主

wind [waɪnd] v. 蜿蜒；迂回

centerpiece [ˋsɛntɚ͵pis] n. 在正中央的东西; 中心装饰品

walk off 用散步消除 to get rid of by walking

gnarly [ˈnɑrlɪ] adj. 多节的 gnarled;  used to describe something old and covered with knobs or knots

gargoyle [ˋgɑrgɔɪl] n. 形象怪异的人

Arc de Triomphe [法国] 凯旋门〈巴黎〉

walk-up window 临街服务窗口 designed to allow pedestrians to be served without entering a building

storied [ˋstorɪd] adj. 历史上有名的; 传说上有名的

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Dijon has never been able to toot its own horn, but the city now has decided to invest in its own treasures. In the last four years, the heart of the city has recently changed. They are renovating the 103 townhouses and creating pedestrian streets, all paved in Burgundy stone.

「迪戎向来都不自吹自擂，但如今这座城镇已决定投资于自家的瑰宝。过去四年间，市中心已出现了极大的变化。有关单位正在翻修一百零三幢连栋房屋，并且增设人行街道，全由勃艮第石头铺成。」

“There are a lot of medieval cities in France, but they are not modern. To be able to modernize the city and keep the medieval feeling, that’s the beauty of Dijon.”

「法国有许多中世纪城镇，但都不具现代化的特色。能够既现代化，同时又保有中世纪的风情、就是迪戎的美妙之处。」

Dijon, of course, is [especially] famous for one product. Our final stop on the tour was at the Maille mustard shop, which has been in business since 1747.

当然，迪戎有种产品特别有名。我们这趟导览之旅的最后一站是马利芥末商店，这家店自一七四七年就一直营业至今。

“The mustard seeds are macerated in wine; it can only be bought in this shop and in Paris,” Thevenot said. “Everything else is made with vinegar.”

「芥末籽都浸泡在红酒里，这种产品只有在这家店和巴黎买得到，」特维诺说：「其他地方都是用醋做的。」

Wine-lover’s delight  红酒爱好者的最爱

While walking is easy in Dijon, driving can be confusing on its one-way streets. My destination was the medieval city of Beaune, the wine capital of Burgundy. My arrival was timed perfectly; it was the second weekend of November, when the world’s largest wine auction is held. Vendors sold a feast of food from carts piled with breads, cheeses, sausages, spices, mushrooms, chocolates and nougat, a nut-filled confection.

在迪戎散步虽然相当轻松愉快，但市内的单行道却可能让开车的人晕头转向。我的目的地是勃艮第的红酒之都波恩，而抵达的时间更是恰到好处，因为现在是十一月的第二个周末，正是世界上规模最大的红酒拍卖会举行的期间。摊贩在推车上贩卖各种食物，包括面包、奶酪、香肠、香料、蘑菇、巧克力以及充满坚果的甜食：牛轧糖。

A day later, I hitched a ride with Laurent Delelee, who operates Wine and Voyages and takes visitors on tours of the vineyards. He pointed out the stone houses of the winemakers.

第二天，我搭上了罗兰．德勒利的便车。他经营的「美酒和旅游」之旅，带领游客走访葡萄园。他指出了酿酒人的石屋所在位置。

“Winemaker, winemaker, winemaker – if a person doesn’t make wine, he works for someone who does,” Delelee said.

「酿酒人、酿酒人、还是酿酒人──这里的居民如果本身不是酿酒人，就是在为酿酒人工作，」德勒利说。

We rode along a 20-mile-long, southeast-facing hillside of limestone covered by a foot of clay, with trees on top and towns on the bottom.

我们驱车沿着一道长达二十哩的东南向石灰岩山坡而行，这片山坡表面覆盖着一呎厚的黏土，山顶绿树繁盛，山脚下则散布着一座座城镇。

“It’s the geology that feeds the plant,” Delelee said. “Here, we do not irrigate, we do not fertilize.”

「这里的地质状况有益于植物的生长，」德勒利说：「我们在这里既不灌溉，也不施肥。」

The grands crus vintages, the best of the best, come from vineyards highest up the slope, he said. The vineyard was owned by the Romanee-Conti estate, home of the most expensive wine in the world. The average price was 4,000 to 6,000 euros per bottle.

他说，列级葡萄酒是佳酿中的佳酿，来自山坡上海拔最高的葡萄园。那座葡萄园属于罗曼尼－康帝酒园所有，生产全世界最昂贵的红酒。平均价格为每瓶四千至六千欧元。

“It’s a very small piece of land,” he said. “It produces about 3,000 bottles a year. Imagine, 3,000 bottles for the world. Think about how many restaurants we have in New York, Japan, Paris – and they all want the grands crus of Burgundy. It’s a drop in the ocean.”

「这块地所占的面积其实很小，」他说：「每年产量约为三千瓶。想想看，全世界只有三千瓶。纽约、日本、巴黎有那么多家餐厅──而所有餐厅都想要勃艮第的列级葡萄酒。这酒稀有到简直可说是沧海一滴。」

−by Tom Uhlenbrock

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toot [tut] v. 吹喇叭（或号角等）；发出嘟嘟声

renovate [ˋrɛnə͵vet] v. 修复; 装修; 整修

macerate [ˋmæsə͵ret] v. 将（植物等）浸软  to leave food in a liquid so that it absorbs the liquid and becomes soft

feast [fist] n. 大量(赏心悦目的事情)

nougat [ˋnugɑ] n. 奶油杏仁花生糖；牛轧糖  a hard chewy candy, usually containing nuts

confection [kənˋfɛkʃən] n. 糕饼; 蜜饯; 甜点

hitch [hɪtʃ] n.【口】搭便车

voyage [ˋvɔɪɪdʒ] n. 旅行，航海，航空；远行  

geology [dʒɪˋɑlədʒɪ] n.（某地区的）地质情况

vintage [ˋvɪntɪdʒ] n.（优良品牌的）葡萄酒; 特定年分(或地方)酿制的酒 the wine made in a particular year

a drop in the ocean 沧海一粟 a very small amount in comparison to the amount that is needed

单词发音

Vocabulary Focus

fabled [ˋfeb!d] adj. 著名的 describes something that has been made very famous, especially by having many stories written about it

façade [fəˋsɑd]（建筑物的）正面；前面 the front of a building, especially a large or attractive building

toot (one’s) own horn 自我夸耀 to brag

irrigate [ˋɪrə͵get] v. 灌溉 to supply land with water so that crops and plants will grow

estate [ɪsˋtet] n. 庄园 a large area of land in the country which is owned by a family or an organization and is often used for growing crops or raising animals

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