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A Stranger at Home Volume 3: A Glimpse of History 原乡陌路人 第三章：保加利亚

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When I was growing up in communist Poland, the Black Sea coast of Bulgaria was famous throughout the Soviet bloc for romantically named resorts – such as Sunny Beach and Golden Sands – that catered to wealthy communist party officials. But when I went there in 1995, I found Bulgaria to be much more than Eastern Europe’s summer getaway.

当我在共产波兰成长时，保加利亚的黑海岸，因为有着浪漫的名字度假胜地──例如阳光海岸和黄金沙滩──而闻名整个苏维埃联盟。这些胜地都是为迎合富有的共产党官员口味的地方，但是我在1995年到那里的时候，我发现保加利亚不只是东欧避暑的好去处。

Bulgaria is also the meeting place of European and Asia continents; the terrain on which numerous cultural traditions flourished together through two millennia. Thracian, Altaic tribes from faraway Siberia, Romans, the Orthodox Church of Byzantine Empire, local Slavic peoples and the Ottoman Turks all played a part in shaping Bulgarian culture, language, and architectural landscape.

保加利亚也是欧洲大陆与亚洲大陆的交界。两千年来在这个地区有许多文化传统一起繁荣成长。色雷斯人、来自遥远西伯利亚的阿尔泰部落的人、罗马人、拜占庭帝国的东正教、斯洛伐克的本地人和奥图曼土耳其人在保加利亚的文化、语言和建筑景观的形成上都扮演着重要的角色。

My most memorable experience in Bulgaria took place amongst the majestic Rila Mountains in the southwestern part of the country. There, hidden away in an ancient pine forest, stands the Rila Monastery, one of the Bulgarian Orthodox Church’s most secluded centers of worship.

我在保加利亚最难忘的经验发生在这个国家西南方巍峨的利拉山脉中。一座利拉修道院矗立着，深藏在古老松树林间，那是保加利亚东正教最僻静的礼拜中心之一。

Christianity in Bulgaria derived its tradition from the Byzantine Church of the Eastern Roman Empire and the thread which has continued from antiquity is visible today in the church rituals, architecture and art. Wanting to experience the aura of quiet monastic life, I decided to spend the night in a cell at Rila.

保加利亚的基督教传统源自东罗马帝国的拜占庭教会。传承自古代传统的例子，在教会的仪式、建筑和艺术中仍历历可见。为了体验宁静的修道院生活的气氛，我决定在利拉修道院的小房间中住上一晚。

Vocabulary

单词发音

Bulgaria [bʌlˋgɛrɪə] n. 保加利亚

bloc [blɑk] n. 集团﹐ 阵营

cater [ˋketɚ] to 为...服务; 迎合

getaway [ˋgɛtə͵we] n. 短假

terrain [ˋtɛren] n. 地域，地带

millennium [mɪˋlɛnɪəm] n. 千年期

Thracian [ˋθreʃən] adj. 色雷斯（人）的

Altaic [ælˋteɪk] adj. 阿尔泰山的；阿尔泰语系的

faraway [ˋfɑrəˋwe] adj. 遥远的，远方的

orthodox [ˋɔrθə͵dɑks] adj.〔宗教观念〕正统的﹐ 信奉宗教观念的; 循规蹈矩的

Byzantine [bɪˋzæntɪn] adj. 东罗马帝国的; 拜占庭式的

Slavic [ˋslævɪk] adj. 斯拉夫（民族）的；斯拉夫语的

Ottoman [ˋɑtəmən] adj. 土耳其的；土耳其人的

memorable [ˋmɛmərəb!] adj. 值得怀念的；难忘的

majestic [məˋdʒɛstɪk] adj. 雄伟的；威严的；崇高的

monastery [ˋmɑnəs͵tɛrɪ] n.（男子的）修道院；僧院

secluded [sɪˋkludɪd] adj. 僻静的﹐ 偏僻的

thread [θrɛd] n. 线索; 脉络

antiquity [ænˋtɪkwətɪ] n.（尤指中世纪前的）古代

aura [ˋɔrə] n. 气氛﹐气息﹐韵味

monastic [məˋnæstɪk] adj. 修道院的；修道士的

cell [sɛl] n.（修道院的）单人小室

Sentence of the Day

She covered a lot of ground.

她提供了许多信息。

ground [graʊnd] n. 立场，观点; 根据，理由

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I arrived at Rila Monastery in the early afternoon and a monk who was working at the gate led me to my cell. It was a simple room with white-washed walls and a tiny window with a view of the courtyard and the church steeple. Inside stood a metal cot covered only by a thin mattress and a blanket. There was a cold-water communal shower in the hallway.

我在午后抵达利拉修道院，在门口工作的一位修士带我到我的小房间。那是一间简单的房间，有着白色墙壁及一个可以看见庭院及教堂尖塔的小窗户。在里面，放着一张小铁床，上面盖着一张薄床垫和一张毯子。在走廊上有一间公共的冷水淋浴间。

As the evening drew near I wandered outside to explore the peaceful surroundings. I walked underneath the arches of the galleries surrounding the courtyard. By now, mist was descending in smoky pillars between the tree tops, enveloping the mountains, and the only sounds were the birdsongs and the distant murmuring of a creek.

在接近傍晚时，我在外面漫步，探寻着宁静的周遭环境。我穿越围绕在庭院四周的走廊拱门。此时，薄雾从树梢间如柱状烟雾般缓缓下降，包围着群山，而唯一可以听到的就是鸟啭及远处传来汩汩的溪水声。

At six o’clock the church bell announced the evening mass. I entered the candlelit basilica, the medieval Byzantine icons gazing at me sadly from behind clouds of incense. The first Slavic missionaries who translated the Bible into the old Slavic language are said to have come from the lands of today’s Bulgaria, and their language is still used today in church ceremonies. Listening to the bearded priest chanting evening prayers, followed by the hypnotizing choir of male voices, I felt like I uncovered a snapshot of history.

教堂钟声在六点宣布晚间弥撒开始。我进入点着蜡烛的圣堂，中世纪的拜占庭神像从袅袅的香烟后悲伤地凝视着我。据说第一位将圣经翻译成古斯拉夫文的斯拉夫传教士来自于今日的保加利亚，而今日的教会仪式中仍沿用他们的语言。聆听着留着大胡子的神父诵念着晚间的祝祷文，随着那些催眠似的男合声，我觉得我已经发现历史的翦影。

－by Dominika Baran

Vocabulary

单词发音

courtyard [ˋkortˋjɑrd] n. 庭院﹐ 院子

steeple [ˋstip!] n.〔教堂的〕尖塔

cot [kɑt] n. 行军床﹐ 折迭床

communal [ˋkɑmjʊn!] adj. 共有的﹐公共的

hallway [ˋhɔl͵we] n.〔建筑物内的〕走廊﹐ 过道

gallery [ˋgælərɪ] n. 回廊，走廊，长廊

mist [mɪst] n. 薄雾，霭

envelope [ˋɛnvə͵lop] v. 包围

murmuring [ˋmɝmərɪŋ] n. 潺潺的声音

mass [mæs] n.【宗】弥撒

candlelit [ˋkændllɪt] adj. 烛光的

basilica [bəˋzɪlɪkə] n.（古罗马）长方形会堂

gaze [gez] v. 凝视，注视，盯[Q][（+at/on/upon/into）]

incense [ˋɪnsɛns] n. 香；焚香时的烟

bearded [ˋbɪrdɪd] adj. 有胡须的

chant [tʃænt] v. 反复（单调）地唱（或说）；吟诵

hypnotize [ˋhɪpnə͵taɪz] v. 对……施催眠术

choir [kwaɪr] n.（教堂的）唱诗班

snapshot [ˋsnæp͵ʃɑt] n. 简要印象；点滴的了解

Sentence of the Day

It was music to her ears.

那对她很中听。

music to one’s ears 佳音; 好消息  a welcome sound to someone; news that someone is pleased to hear

Spectacular Rila Monastery, Bulgaria