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The Rich Culture of Tainan 台南文化飨宴

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Travel back in time to this treasure of a town  追昔忆往瑰宝古都游

Zipping along on Taiwan’s High Speed Rail to the southern city of Tainan is a deliciously futuristic experience. But the past was the lure for me, and Tainan serves up a buffet of sights to gratify even the most insatiable history buffs.

搭乘高铁风驰电掣抵达南部城市台南，是个极具未来感的美妙经验。不过，真正吸引我的是往昔，而台南丰富的观光景点，就连最难以满足的历史迷也会感到心满意足。

Aboriginal tribes migrated to Taiwan several thousand years ago, and Han Chinese crossed the Taiwan Strait in the early 1600s, but it wasn’t until a coincidental 38-year period that the importance of Tainan clearly came into focus.

原住民部落在数千年前移居台湾，汉民族则在十七世纪早期渡过台湾海峡而来，然而，一直要到（译注：一六二四年至一六六二年）这偶然的三十八年间，台南的重要性才明显受到瞩目。

The year 1624 marks the establishment of Dutch trading posts in Taiwan, and also the birth of Koxinga. Koxinga would eventually become the military leader who expelled the Dutch in 1662, only to die three months later.

一六二四年，荷兰在台湾建立贸易站，国姓爷（郑成功）也在这一年诞生。国姓爷后来成为军事领袖，在一六六二年赶走荷兰人，却在三个月之后去世。

Encountering history  遇见历史

To dig into this rich past we headed to Anping Fort, a sturdy red-brick fortress first constructed as the base of operations for the Dutch East India Company. From here trade routes and naval operations were coordinated, as was administration of the southern part of Taiwan.

我们前往安平古堡发掘这段丰富历史，安平古堡是个坚固的红砖碉堡，建造之初是做为荷兰东印度公司的营运基地，贸易路线、海军任务，及南台湾的行政管理均在此整合。

The current fort, which features crisp lines, cannons on guard and lush foliage, was rebuilt during Japanese colonization. Its tower was used as a lookout during World War II. A climb to the top level of Anping Fort provides a commanding view of the coastal area so heavily fought for over the centuries, as well as the nearby street markets, which now offer less violent methods of conducting trade.

现在的碉堡重建于日治时期，线条利落、大炮卫戍、绿意扶疏，塔楼在第二次世界大战期间做为瞭望台。登上安平古堡最高楼，海岸区域一览无遗，这个地区数世纪以来一直是兵家必争之地，附近的街头市集也清晰可见，现在进行贸易的方式已不似以往那么暴力。

Before Koxinga conquered Anping Fort in February 1662, he first captured Fort Provincia (now known as Chihkan Tower) the previous year. Today, Provincia is actually a combination of the original base – built by the Dutch – and two Qing dynasty towers, resulting in an architectural masterpiece. We visited this visually stunning complex at night, when it comes to life with artistic lighting and frequent concerts right in the heart of downtown Tainan.

国姓爷在一六六二年二月攻下安平古堡，前一年他先拿下了普罗民遮城（现称赤崁楼）。赤崁楼其实包括了荷兰人所建的原始城楼与两座清朝的阁楼，乃一建筑名作。我们是在夜间前来造访这座视觉效果惊人的建筑，艺术化的灯光加上台南市闹区中心地带经常举办的音乐会，让赤崁楼充满生气。

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zip along 活跃(或迅速)地沿某方向运动

zip [zɪp] v. 以尖啸声行进

lure [lʊr] n. 诱惑力，吸引力；魅力

serve up 端上, 提供, 提出 provide (usually but not necessarily food)

sights [saɪts] n. 风景

gratify [ˋgrætə͵faɪ] v. 满足（欲望等）

history buff 历史迷 a person who is very interested in and knows a lot about history

buff [bʌf] n.【美】【口】迷，爱好者

aboriginal [͵æbəˋrɪdʒən!] adj. 原住民的 describes a person that has existed in a country or continent since the earliest time known to people

come into focus (使某事物)清晰(或明确、在焦点上)，（问题）突出

trading post 贸易站 a small place, especially in the past, far from other places in which people live, where goods can be bought and sold or exchanged

sturdy [ˋstɝdɪ] adj. 坚固的，经久耐用的

naval [ˋnev!] adj. 海军的；军舰的；船的

crisp [krɪsp] adj. 干净利落的

cannon [ˋkænən] n. 大炮，火炮；榴弹炮

foliage [ˋfolɪɪdʒ] n.【书】叶，叶子，簇叶  the leaves of a plant or tree

lookout [ˋlʊkˋaʊt] n. 瞭望所；监视

commanding [kəˋmændɪŋ] adj. 居高临下的，一览无余的

come to life  表现生动；变得活跃  to become animated; grow excited

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A picturesque fortress  风景如画的碉堡

The next morning we headed off to the Eternal Golden Castle, and stepped forward 200 years to 1874. Designed by the French and used by the Qing Dynasty to repel Japanese incursions, it is much more expansive than the earlier citadels in Tainan. A moat surrounds the sloping earthen walls, and visitors march over a concrete bridge, through a brick arch and tunnel, emerging onto an enormous, lush lawn. Our guide told us that up to 1,000 soldiers could live and train here among the ammunition, which has now been replaced by blossoming flowers. A highlight was climbing the walls and standing next to replicas of the giant, 18-ton Armstrong cannons, which required eight men to operate. As I stood atop the fortress wall, feeling a calm sea breeze and hearing the rustle of palm leaves, I could imagine cannons firing in battle and soldiers scurrying about.

次日早晨我们前往亿载金城参观，向前跨进两百年，来到了一八七四年。亿载金城是由法国人设计，清廷用来抵挡日本人的入侵，它的规模比台南一些早期的堡垒大了许多。护城河环绕着斜斜的土墙，观光客走上水泥桥，穿过砖造拱门和隧道，眼前是一大片如茵绿地。导游告诉我们，这里可以容纳高达一千名士兵在弹药军火堆中生活、接受训练，如今弹药早已被盛开的繁花所取代。爬上城墙，站在十八吨重、需要八人操作的庞大阿姆斯特朗大炮复制品旁是此行最精彩的部份。我站在城墙上，海风静静地吹来，棕榈叶沙沙作响，我可以想见战役中炮声隆隆、军士奔跑匆匆的景象。

Unique museums  独树一格的博物馆

Two places that bring a taste of Old Europe to southern Taiwan are the merchant house of Tait & Company, and the Julius Mannich Merchant House. Both were established in the 1860s and are prime examples of period architecture from England and Germany.

德记洋行和东兴洋行为南台湾带来旧欧洲的风味，二者均建于一八六０年代，为英国及德国当时的典型建筑。

On the second floor of the Tait & Merchant House are intriguing wax dioramas. One enlightening depiction reveals that sugar cane and oxen were not indigenous to Taiwan but introduced by the Dutch, from Indonesia. And don’t miss the Tree House, an old salt warehouse located behind the Tait building that has been taken over by a family of Banyan trees.

德记洋行的二楼是引人入胜的蜡像馆，一项极具启发性的展示显示出，甘蔗和牛不是台湾本土产物，而是由荷兰人从印度尼西亚所引进。还有就是千万不能错过安平树屋，这里原本是洋行建筑后方放盐的旧仓库，后来被许多株榕树占领盘据。

We needed a coffee break, so we strolled over to the Julius Mannich House and enjoyed a brief respite in the café on the front lawn – which used to be underwater, allowing boats to dock right at the front door of the building. Now it’s a harbor for anyone who wants a taste of Tainan’s scrumptious history.

我们需要喝点咖啡休息一下，于是信步走到东兴洋行，在前庭草坪的咖啡馆中愉快地小憩一番。这片草地过去是汪洋一片，船只可以停泊在洋行建筑前门，现在则成了希望品尝台南美好历史者休息的港湾。

−by Bill Quinn

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head off 改变航向；动身去……

incursion [ɪnˋkɝʃən] n. 侵略；入侵  a sudden attack on or act of going into a place

expansive [ɪkˋspænsɪv] adj. 广阔的；辽阔的

citadel [ˋsɪtəd!] n.（护城）城堡；堡垒，要塞  a strong castle in or near a city, where people can shelter from danger, especially during a war

moat [mot] n. 护城河，壕沟

ammunition [͵æmjəˋnɪʃən] n. 弹药，军火

rustle [ˋrʌs!] n. 沙沙声，窸窣声

merchant [ˋmɝtʃənt] n. 商人 a person whose job is to buy and sell products in large amounts

scurry [ˋskɝɪ] v. 急匆匆地跑；急赶

diorama [͵daɪəˋrɑmə] n. 仿真模型   a model which shows a situation, such as an historical event, in a way that looks real

enlightening [ɪnˋlaɪtnɪŋ] adj. 有启发作用的，使人领悟的

ox [ɑks] n. (pl. oxen) 公牛，阉牛，野牛，水牛

take over (武力)占领，接管

banyan [ˋbænjən] n.【植】榕树

respite [ˋrɛspɪt] n. 暂时的休息（或喘息）；（痛苦的）缓解，暂止

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Vocabulary Focus

insatiable [ɪnˋseʃɪəb!] adj. 永不满足的；贪得无厌的 referring to a desire or need that is too great to be satisfied

coincidental [ko͵ɪnsəˋdɛnt!] adj. 巧合的；偶然一致的; 同时发生的 describing two or more things happening at the same time, especially in a way that is unexpected or unlikely

repel [rɪˋpɛl] v. 驱逐，赶走 to force something or someone to stop attacking you

replica [ˋrɛplɪkə] n. 复制品 an exact copy of an object

scurry about 匆忙地跑 to move around quickly, especially with small running steps

period [ˋpɪrɪəd] adj. 某一时代（特有）的 representing the style of a particular time in history

indigenous [ɪnˋdɪdʒɪnəs] adj. 当地的; 本地的 naturally existing in a place or country rather than arriving from another place

scrumptious [ˋskrʌmpʃəs] adj.【口】绝妙的；极好的 extremely pleasant, especially to the senses

Anping Fort

Chihkan Tower(赤崁楼)

Eternal Golden Castle(亿载金城)

merchant house of Tait & Company(德记洋行)

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Tree House

Julius Mannich Merchant House(东兴洋行)

The Armstrong cannon