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Hangin’ Beachside: The Surfers’ Story 乘浪向前冲！

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Surfers are a laid-back bunch, sporting baggy clothes and driving camper vans along the coast. Most people either detest, envy, or admire their carefree way of life. Historically, though, surfing wasn’t the sport of beach bums, ___1___ the elite.

冲浪者是一群穿着松垮衣服，无忧无虑的人，沿着海岸开着露营车。大多数人不是厌恶、嫉妒，就是向往冲浪者那种无牵无挂的生活方式。不过历史上，冲浪一开始可不属于那些在沙滩上闲荡的家伙，而是菁英份子的运动。

Surfing’s past is hazy, but we know it was central to ancient Polynesian culture and ___2___ as sacred. The ruling class had exclusive access to the best beaches, and the tribe’s chief was the most skilled surfer. However, lower tribe members who showed talent on the board would attract his ___3___.

虽然我们对于冲浪的历史了解甚少，但我们确定它在古玻里尼西亚的文化中举足轻重，而且被视作极神圣的活动。领导阶层能独享最佳海滩，而部落领袖就是最优秀的冲浪手。不过低阶的部落成员可以藉由展现冲浪天份来得到领袖的赞赏。

Nowadays, surfing can be recreational or ___4___, and involves some pretty cool moves. At the basic level, a surfer paddles toward the shore and catches a wave. He then “pops up” into a standing position, retaining his ___5___ as he is swept over the breaking water. Ideally, he exits the wave before he falls off the board, or “wipes out.” Skilled surfers can perform many ___6___. One particularly impressive maneuver is “the tube,” in which the surfer steers himself into the ___7___ part of the wave, where he is surrounded by water.

现今的冲浪可纯粹作为消遣，也可以很专业，而且还包括了许多酷炫招式。在基础阶段，冲浪者会划向岸边试图追浪，然后迅速在冲浪板上站起来，并在破浪而出时保持平衡。理想的话，他会在跌倒之前顺利推离海浪，要不然就准备「歪暴」（被浪冲倒）。技术高超的冲浪者可以做出许多花招。有一项特别令人印象深刻的招式叫做「波管」，冲浪者会驶向大浪中间空心的位置，让自己被浪包围。

These days, ___8___ forecasting technology, people can check online and find out where to ___9___ for the best local waves. Because decent surf is ___10___ on the condition of the seabed and the wind, not all beaches are good for catching waves. California, Australia, and Hawaii all boast great surf sports, but Taiwan’s north coast is a good place to learn. So what are you waiting for, dude? Surf’s up!

拜气象预报科技所赐，人们现在可以上网查询当地最好的冲浪地点。不是所有海滩都是逐浪的好地方，因为要有适当的海床和风才会产生适合的浪。加州、澳洲和夏威夷都以拥有绝佳冲浪点而自豪，不过台湾北岸会是初学者不错的选择。所以你还在等什么？起浪了！

−by Alice Davis

Vocabulary

单词发音

laid-back [ˋled͵bæk] adj.【俚】悠闲的；懒散的；闲散的

sport [sport] v. 引人注目地穿戴; 炫耀 Informal to wear or display in an ostentatious or proud manner

detest [dɪˋtɛst] v. 厌恶，憎恶

exclusive [ɪkˋsklusɪv] adj. 独有的，独占的，专用的

access [ˋæksɛs] n. 接近，进入；接近的机会，进入的权利；使用[U][（+to）]

recreational [͵rɛkrɪˋeʃən!] adj. 消遣的；娱乐的

paddle [ˋpæd!] v. 划; 用桨划（船）

retain [rɪˋten] v. 保留，保持

sweep [swip] v. 扫过，掠过

steer [stɪr] v. 驾驶，掌舵; 操纵

forecast [ˋfor͵kæst] v. 预测，预报

boast [bost] v.（指物）以有……而自豪

More Information

单词发音

bunch [bʌntʃ] n.【口】群，伙，帮

baggy [ˋbægɪ] adj. 〔衣服等〕宽松下垂的

van [væn] n. 有盖小货车；箱形客货两用车

admire [ədˋmaɪr] v. 羡慕

bum [bʌm] n. 迷恋某种运动（或娱乐）的人; 懒汉，吊儿郎当的人

hazy [ˋhezɪ] adj. 〔印象﹑记忆等〕模糊的; 不清楚的 unclear, confused, or uncertain

exit [ˋɛksɪt] v. 离去; 离开

wipe out 消灭, 彻底摧毁 to lose one's balance and fall, as when skiing or surfing

maneuver [məˋnuvɚ] n. 花招

decent [ˋdisnt] adj. 象样的；还不错的

dude [djud] n. 太讲究衣着仪表的人；花花公子; 【俚】男人；男孩

surf [sɝf] n. 海浪；浪花

regard [rɪˋgɑrd] v. 把……看作，把……认为[（+as）]

World record ! Surfing a 90 ft wave in Nazare, Portugal (HD)

BIG WAVE SURFING: VIRTUALLY WORLD'S HIGHEST WAVES SURFED

The Heaviest Surfing Wave In The world Teahupoo

Answer